ESSO - Indian National Centre for Ocean Information Services
(An Autonomous Body under the Ministry of Earth Sciences, Govt. of India)
Wave Steepnes
Wave steepness (s) is the ratio between wave height (H) and wavelength (L). When waves approach shallow waters, H increases and L decreases. When the ratio H/L reaches the value of 1/7, the wave breaks. Pitch poling and capsizing becomes real possibilities for smaller vessels when wave steepness is severe. Wave steepness seems to be a parameter at least as important as wave height, under some special circumstances even more important. The capsizing potential of a wave critically depends on the steepness of the crest front.
